What I Learned on Our Trip

Grant Thomas Dover

Mike & Amy's new little Dover arrived pretty much on schedule (January 25th) as we were traveling home from Chile. KR didn't even make it home, as she left right for Utah on a plane from Sea-Tac Airport as we arrived. What a woman! She stayed and helped until Amy got on her feet. Here is the new baby, the proud brother and sister, and Wondergrandma.

What a Difference a Day Makes

As we cruised north from Puerto Montt, we finally entered the Chilean summer weather and shed our coats and hats. The weather was beautiful in Valparaiso and we enjoyed a nice bus ride into Santiago through the vineyards. The four of us met up with a missionary couple (the Wengreen's) from the Wenatchee Stake that are serving in Rancagua, Chile. They showed us around for an afternoon. We visited the Santiago Chile Temple and the area around Rancagua where they work with a small branch. They will be returning to Wenatchee in May.

Cruising the Fjords of Chile

The fjords of Chile go on forever and show few signs of the hand of man. I served in Chile 40 years ago as a missionary and was very excited about returning to Punta Arenas, where I spent six months with three other missionaries isolated and freezing on the Strait of Magellan.

We stopped first in Ushuaia, Argentina, the self-proclaimed "end of the world", then through the Beagle Channel, made famous by Charles Darwin, into the Strait, then stopped in PA. The Beagle contains some of the most awesome hanging glaciers you will see anywhere. Our day in Punta Arenas dawned warm and sunny. We even got to eat lunch in a restaurant I used to frequent every P-day with my companion. KR kissed the foot of the Ona Indian statue in the town square - a move that means she will return one day, or so the legend goes.

As we sailed north, we stopped in Chacabuco and then Puerto Montt, in the shadows of the volcanoes of the Lakes District. What a glorious few days reveling in the scenery of a country that I care about very much.

Rounding the Horn

As we returned from Antarctica to Chilean waters we "rounded the horn", passing below Horn Island, Chile. The sea was very rough and the wind howling. I felt like I was in Master and Commander as I did my Titanic impression on the upper deck as we plowed into the wind.

Afloat in the Antarctic

It was cold. But, we were fortunate and were able to see the White Continent in many of her moods. We had some sunny days and some misty, rainy ones. We saw bergs as big as cities and others sculpted by the waves and wind. Whales, seals and penguins were omnipresent. Mysterious far-off mountain ranges. Untouched snowfields. It is a glorious place and one we need to protect. An unforgettable experience.

The Falklands

Our first stop after BA was at Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands. We had been kicking ourselves for not signing up earlier for cruise shore excursions, including here, as most were full. So we headed into the Port on one of the ship's launches in the pouring rain unsure of what we were going to be able to see. Fortunately, there were a number of private vans that take you to the same places for much cheaper than Princess. Naturally, on the ship they do not share this information with you. We were able to see a very cool penguin colony and take some up-close pictures. There were even two Emperor penguins guarding their nest. The amount of time we spent at the beach was perfect, as the weather was miserable.

Just a note: many of the beaches and hills in the Falklands are still infested with landmines from the Falklands War of 1982! They are off-limits to people (penguins do not set them off) - what a shame for the Falklanders. Thirty years later they are still paying a price. By the way, they ARE Brits - and look and sound the part.

On the Ship

We had been on the Sun Princess before and naturally were very familiar with the ins and outs of the ship. The safety drills are always a fun time. I believe KR is an "autumn", so orange fits her well. They had a raffle on the first afternoon - to get you to visit all the places they would separate you from your money I presume - and, naturally, since KR is always so optimistic, she went for it (despite the cynical whispering from the peanut gallery). Of course, she wins the grand prize and gets us about $200 of internet minutes. When will I learn? They had contacted us 5 days before the cruise and asked us if we would downgrade our room for $1500. Of course, we said yes (we are so cheap). Thinking we would end up next to the propeller in a closet, we were not sure what to expect. Actually, it was a very quiet room in a back hall, nearly twice the size of our former room (it was handicapped equipped). A very nice surprise. The cruise was off to a great start!

Buenos Aires

We spent a couple of rainy days in Buenos Aires, getting over the jet lag and seeing a little of this sprawling city of 13 million on the banks of the Rio Plata. I wish we could have spent more time here - some day perhaps. Such a short time, but one can get a feel. Some impressions - seductive, retains a feel of the past, whether by design or otherwise, good food, proud, still in shock from the economic upheavals of the past decade, worn, lots of loose dogs, and, of course, the ubiquitous tango. KR got to sing like Madonna in front of the Casa Rosada and we enjoyed a wonderful (in my opinion anyway) tango show in a venerable downtown theater. They say that the Argentine people are Italians who speak Spanish, dress like the French, and think they are Brits. Now I know what they mean.

One interesting experience to relate. We were walking between stops on a main street, but away from the flow of people. We felt something wet hit us - Brian got the worst, as you can see in the picture. Just then a guy walked up from behind us and indicated that it was "paloma" (dove) doo-doo. I didn't think so and was skeptical. It didn't smell and was uniformly gray - like very watered-down cement. He took Brian by the arm and tried to lead him a short distance away, where he said there was water and Brian could wash it off. KR and I mentioned that this guy is too friendly and to watch out for a pickpocket. Just a little too helpful. I think he got nervous and the next thing we know a taxi pulls up, he hops in, and is gone. We scratched our heads at the whole experience until later, when we heard another tourist lost his passport to the same ruse. The man had evidently sprayed the substance on us with a squirt gun or syringe. Clever!

The Seventh Continent

Well, we decided to go WAY "down under" and survived to tell the tale (January 7th-27th). Actually, it was on a cruise ship, and was nothing like what Scott, Amundsen or Shackelton experienced. But we did get to see it. This is supposedly the last year in these waters for the big ships that burn heavy fuel oil and we were on one of the last. HFO has been banned from Antarctic waters by the International Maritime Organization and all future visitors must go on smaller ships that burn lighter oil. Such ships are more expensive to operate, hence the trips will cost much more. It was a wonderful, relaxing trip with lots of good food, great scenery, and good company (another trip with the Gundersen's). Lots of days at sea with nothing to do but read, play games, and enjoy the White Continent.

KT is Engaged!

Our baby is engaged! She has found a wonderful guy and we heartily approve of the union. We will be passing through the second phase of the empty nest in April (the 9th to be exact). And he is a Washingtonian to boot. He had better be a Husky fan (haven't asked him yet).