Once we got into upper New Mexico, it made more sense to return via "roads unknown". We ended up doing a giant loop through four states.
August 19
Our drive took us through Hurricane, over the Kaibab, past the Vermillion Cliffs, over Navajo Bridge and on to Cameron, where we spent the night at the trading post, enjoying some Navajo bread and two large pieces of meat! (Pictures: Vermillion Cliffs, Bridge over Little Colorado at Cameron)
Next came Tuba City, Kayenta, Teec Nos Pos and the Four Corners, which has developed some since my last visit. The actual spot where the four states converge is now inside a giant circle, like a plaza, with flags and compass points for eyeballing the state lines. The plaza circle is surrounded by a large number of Navajo kiosks selling a variety of handicrafts and food. KR did the "Four Corner Flop", laying on her back while extending her head and limbs into all four states. We enjoyed a beautiful day driving through the red rock, spending the night in Cortez, CO. (Picture: KR doing the Flop)
Leaving known roads, we traveled east, just north of the New Mexico state line, through Mancos, Durango, Bayfield, and Piedra. Our destination was Chimney Rock NMT (not the Chimney Rock in Wyoming). It rests in beautiful country near Piedra and Ignacio, with rock mesas, trees, and winding rivers and streams. You have to WANT to see this place to venture out that far. We checked in at the small visitor center and made an appointment to join a group tour. All cars in the group have to travel together to the top of the rock formation where the ruins have been restored. Leaving our car in a small parking lot, we began a "short" tour together. It was a LONG short tour, but the site is spectacular, perched on a narrow ridge of eroded rock high above the valley floor. You can see why it was chosen as the site to build the pueblo. After begging out of the second half of the tour, we began the long drive back through New Mexico. Passing through Ignacio, Blanca, Broomfield, and Crown Point, we merged back onto I-40 and drove into Grants, where we spent the night. We asked the hotel clerk for good food suggestions (the Badlands Burger was permanently closed - sigh) and he recommended the WOW Diner. Great food - check it out if you are going through town on the freeway. Also visit the Grants Visitor Center, which presents a nice introduction to the area. (Pictures: Chimney Rock Formation near Piedra, WOW Diner in Grants)
Arising early, we drove through the El Malpais MNT (cool volcanic\lava bed formations) enjoying the early morning sun. A short way down the road, we stopped at El Morro NMT, another beautiful spot with a long history. It is right beside the highway- a tan butte surrounded by green trees and wildflowers. At the base is a water sink that has served as a stopping place for travelers for hundreds of years. These adventurers left evidence of their sojourn, as they carved their names into the soft rock. Some of the dates are very old. Some names were of famous explorers who mentioned this spot in their journals. We retraced our steps back to Grants, then took I-40 into Albuquerque (we saw the sights here on our last trip), then headed north to Santa Fe. About halfway to Santa Fe, we left the freeway in late afternoon and hiked the rocks at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks NMT. What a cool spot. Some climbing is required. As we headed back to the freeway towards Santa Fe, our tire went flat on the Santa Fe "Bajada" and we waited for an hour or so for AAA to come and mount the spare. Kristi's brand new tires no less! We took the back road into Los Alamos and got a nice hotel room near the entrance to Bandelier NMT. (Pictures: KR at El Malpais and El Morro, Rock Formations at Kasha-Katuwe, KR at Kasha-Katuwe, Flat Tire on the Bajada)
August 23
Bandelier needs to be explored on foot over several days. A lot of the best sites are off the road and so we took in what we could, then headed into Los Alamos to check it out. It's a very interesting place, with a huge continuing scientific presence. The city sits on several ridge-lines falling away to scoured canyons. You can see the original intent was to create a small, remote location for a specific purpose, but it is not the place for a major city. It is out of the way and hard to get to as the road system is awkward due to the geography. We headed east through Santa Fe, getting a new replacement tire (for free!) and hopped on I-25 over Glorieta Pass. We enjoyed our hotel bagel with peanut butter and bananas while overlooking the site of the important Civil War battle ending the attempt of Texan rebels to take Santa Fe and exert their influence into Arizona and California. Down the hill from the pass is a fabulous pueblan ruin that lasted into the Spanish\Catholic era. It is located within the Pecos National Historical Park. We spent several hours wandering over the ruins while enjoying the sunshine and view. We pushed on along I-25, which basically follows the old Santa Fe Trail, through San Jose, Las Vegas and Watrous. This area of grassland and few trees is the home of the ruins of Fort Union NMT. This important way station is along the Santa Fe Trail where travelers from the mountain route through Bent's Fort joined the drier, but shorter, route through the Texas Panhandle, making the Trail one again. The station sits out in the middle of a large grass valley surrounded by low mountains. The NPS has done a good job of restoring some of the buildings and interpreting the role of this key post in the development of the west. As we were losing our light, we headed north through Wagon Mound and Springer, stopping to sleep in Raton, at the foot of Raton Pass. We checked beforehand to make sure there was a unit of the Church here, so we could attend meetings on the 24th. (Pictures: Bandelier with Rio Grande Flowing Through It, Los Alamos, KR at Pecos NHP, Ft. Union NMT)
Whenever you attend a small, isolated branch or ward, you see a longing look in the member's eyes....are you moving here or just visiting? Looking for new blood to give sacrament meeting talks I suppose. After church, we drove a loop to the east that took in the Capulin Volcano NMT and Johnson Mesa (the route recommended by some at church). Capulin is an impressive cone that rises from the surrounding ranch land. A road to the top allows you to hike down into the cone crater and affords a magnificent view to the west from the parking lot. Johnson Mesa is a beautiful elevated grassy area covered with cattle ranches. We stopped at a pretty little church along the road that dates back into the heyday of this area in terms of settlement (1890-1920). We met I-25 again at the west end of the mesa and headed north over Raton Pass into Colorado. We spent some time in Trinidad taking pictures of some of the historical buildings, then continued north to Walsenburg, Pueblo, and finally Colorado Springs to end a long day. We bought tickets online for the train ride up Pike's Peak the next day. (Pictures: Church in Raton, View from Capulin Volcano, Church on Johnson Mesa, Raton Pass, Downtown Trinidad, CO)
One of the obvious highlights of the trip was our train ride up Pike's peak from the depot just outside Colorado Springs. It is a popular trip and the train was full. We got good outside seats and snuggled in for the experience. The cog railway moves slowly up the mountain, initially through trees and rock canyons. Suddenly, the trees disappear and the views are stunning. The tracks curl around the south side of the peak stopping at a small depot at the summit (which we visited last time we were here by driving the road to the top of the peak). It was a little chilly at the top and the lack of oxygen was evident. We enjoyed hot chili, looked around the gift shop, and loaded up for the trip down. If you are in the area, this half-day excursion is a must. We hustled north to get KR on her flight to Wenatchee, taking in the new Denver Airport that is located practically in Kansas. We arrived in time to get her on the plane then I headed north out of Denver to Loveland in a driving rainstorm. At Loveland I turned west to Estes Park, following the Big Thompson River. The destruction from recent flooding in this area were very evident with scoured riverbeds, destroyed roads and damaged homes. (Pictures: Pike's Peak Depot, Train Views, KR at top of Pike's Peak)
With the threat of rain and snow at higher elevations, I was up early and on my way. The road winds through beautiful mountain country, eventually passing through the the tree line (at 11,500 feet), and onto ridges void of trees and on top of the world. It culminates at 12,183 feet, the highest paved two-lane road in the U.S. This famed Trail Ridge Road runs 48 miles from Estes Park to Grand Lake. It lived up to its billing and tops the scenic drive list. I passed through Grand Lake, Granby, Fraser, Winter Park, Berthoud Falls, and joined I-70 at Empire. My plan was to backtrack a few miles toward Denver to attempt the drive to the top of Mt. Adams (the highest paved one-way road in the U.S.). I made it about halfway up, but just as I arrived at the ranger station, they closed the road indefinitely due to snow. Darn! Pondering my next move, I realized I did not have time to wait and see if it opened back up. I got back to I-70 and headed west to Copper Mountain, then turning south to Leadville. My plan was to spend the night there, in the highest incorporated city in the U.S. at 10,152 feet. Had some nice Mexican food. I really felt the elevation. (Pictures: Estes Park, View on Trail Ridge Road, Leadville, Church in Leadville)
August 27
I awoke to a blustery day, heading south to Twin Lakes, then west over Independence Pass (12,095 feet - very cold at the top) to Aspen. Deciding that I would want to come back to Aspen some day with KR, I just took a little look around and headed west to Glenwood Springs, rejoining with I-70. I hit a tremendous rain storm that slowed me down, stopping to spend the night in Rifle, CO. (Pictures:
Twin Lakes, CO, Summit of Independence Pass, Glenwood Springs Pool)
August 28
Tired of driving, I did the Rifle, CO. to St. George round trip in one long day. Grand Junction, Green River, Hanksville (steak dinner), Fruita, Boulder, Escalante, Tropic, Hatch, Mt. Carmel, Springdale, Hurricane, then into St. George in the dark. The only stop I made was the San Rafael Swell and a quick look at Goblin Valley State Park near Hanksville, UT. What a great trip! (Pictures: Goblin Valley State Park, Badlands near Hanksville, View East from Boulder Highway, Escalante River, St. George)
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