Colombian Food, Villa de Leiva & The Long Walk

On Monday 24, we left at 6:00 a.m. on our long-planned journey to visit Villa de Leiva, a very old city that has been maintained in it's colonial condition. We hired a local member with a car to drive us there, a trip which can be done in a long day.

We headed north through Chia and bypassing Zipaquira. After crossing a small range of mountains, we entered the Ubate Valley, known for its cheese and milk production. We drove through some of the most peaceful, beautiful farming communities awakening to the activities of the day. Men and boys herded small groups of milk cows along the winding roads in the early morning light. Some cows, secured in two or four-stall, portable milking stations staked out in the dew-covered fields, were already being milked. Metal milk cans sat at the head of intersecting dirt roads for pickup. We saw several people on bicycles stopping to fill plastic jugs with fresh milk before bungee-cording them onto the frames of their bicycles for the trip back home.

The Ubate Valley

Further down the highway, roadside stands selling baskets began to appear. We were near the Laguna de Fuquene, which abounds in a particular reed which is used to make all kinds of woven products. We stopped at one place and took an immediate liking to their handiwork. Some of the reeds were dyed red or black to add to the beauty of the weaving. Metal frames of different shapes were used to give form to the items until they were finished, then the forms were removed. I'm a sucker for beautiful baskets, so we bought one. We hope it makes it home in one piece.

Passing thru Chiquinquira, we stopped to admire a beautiful, yellow cathedral on the central plaza and got out for a few minutes to stretch our legs. A little woman selling fruit on the steps of the cathedral caught our eye. Small stalls selling religious trinkets dotted the narrow roads alongside the cathedral and stores along the plaza sold typical tourist fare.

Chiquinquira

We took a small detour from the main road to visit the town of Raquira, the "City of Pots". It is famous for its colony of artisans, who produce traditional northern Andean pottery & hand-woven goods. We got out of the car and walked down the entrance road lined with shops filled with colorful items - hammocks, pots, carved masks and trinkets of all kinds. We walked in and out of nearly every store! The outside walls of the buildings were covered with colorful murals and the streets paved with cobblestones. Quite picturesque! The town had filled the main plaza with life-size statues made of clay, including the obligatory urinating-boy fountain. Our big purchase was a keychain to be used as a Christmas ornament and a sweater/poncho for me (which I bargained hard for).

Raquira

Pig Pile

Lunchtime required bravery on my part. We pulled into a roadside parilla in Sutamarchan (an area famous for its sausage, called longaniza) cooking all sorts of meat on an outdoor grill. Luckily, potatoes, yuca and corn were also on the grill. Since I could see flames cooking the meat and noticed they used tongs to transfer it to our plate, I felt brave enough to eat it - well, most of it. I just can't seem to gag down anything that comes in the form of a Colombian sausage. The grilled corn kernels were interesting, kind of like corn nuts.We got a whole plate of different meats and side items for about $4.50. It fed three of us comfortably.

Finally arriving at Villa de Leiva, we rattled down the stone streets to the central plaza, which was huge. All the structures in the center of town are required by law to retain their original color scheme, green and white, which was the Spanish colonial custom. Many of the houses along the narrow streets sported beautiful green balconies. Three women selling their wares drew us in and we ended up buying a bottle of their honey. They also tried to talk us into buying a huge aloe vera plant, saying it would bring us good luck. Restaurants hang them in their dining rooms for the same reason. Mike said the town reminded him of something out of a Clint Eastwood movie and he expected him to come riding in at any moment.

The Villa de Leiva Plaza

My Honey Buying Honey

We headed back via the same road in mid-afternoon, arriving in Zipaquira around 5:00 p.m. in the face of a driving rainstorm. We were dropped off at the Zipaquira salt mines (which are still operating), bought our tickets, and ducked into the mines out of the rain. Within the abandoned parts of the mine, which consist of HUGE empty caverns carved out of pure salt, they have created a fantastic tourist attraction. It mostly consists of Roman Catholic icons, crosses and cathedrals, but it is interesting just from the standpoint of its sheer size. Many of the tunnels are over 200 meters underground. A functioning congregation has as many as 3,000 visitors on Sundays, but since it has no overseeing bishop, it is not "officially" a Catholic cathedral. Mike asked if the Mormons could use it for a meeting and the guide paused and said, "Yeah, sure!" One section represented the events in the life of Jesus, with hand-carved icons and statues in rooms along the tunnels. There were altars where people could stop and worship, and signage along the way explained each room. They should have had someone who speaks English proofread before posting the signs, as one indicated a statue was a depiction of "Mary, The Holly Mother". When we exited the mine, it was still raining, so we popped our umbrella (which we take everywhere) and walked to the waiting van. The day was long, but filled with memories. We got home about 8:30 p.m.

The Salt Mines of Zipaquira

Tuesday 25 started out a little rough, when I shut the door to the apartment with the keys in the lock - on the inside of the door. We have a routine when leaving the apartment and I diverted. I took the trash to the chute just as we were leaving, then I went back to the apartment door where Mike was waiting at the elevator with the door open. I took the door handle and slammed the door shut, then went to double twist the key to lock it, but the keys weren't in the lock. My heart sank, as the spare set was inside with the main keys. We took the elevator down and asked the security guards if they could call the apartment owner and see if he could drop off an extra key.

The second day of TAL (our job search workshop) began shortly after we arrived at work, but one woman didn't go into class. She waved me over to the table where she sat and whispered, "Do you have time to talk with me?" "Of course I do", I answered and invited her into our office. She is the especialista from Barrio Quirigua and had been asked by her bishop to teach the fifth-Sunday class for the combined Priesthood/Relief Society lesson. He wanted her to teach the principles of self-sufficiency and she was terrified. She had attended our training last Saturday, so Mike gave her various ideas, a DVD with some excellent vignettes, then wrote out the outline of a lesson. Her life experience is an example of autosuficiencia. Her husband left her and went to Canada leaving her alone with their children. She knew she needed a better job to support her family, so she worked washing floors and anything else she could find while attending a nursing technical school. Her job as an ambulance attendant is good and supports her family. So many people are in need in her ward and her confidence in her abilities to help them is shaky. Mike tried to buoy her up. She asked if we might be able to come visit her ward, but Mike told her we were leaving in six weeks and really could not visit that many more wards with our full schedule. But he looked again and saw that we might be able to juggle our schedule for the coming Sunday and attend the Quiriagua Ward. She cried out and immediately assumed that Mike was going to teach the lesson for her! Well, he did leave the door open by agreeing to the visit!

Wednesday 26. Mike thought we should share some of our favorite Colombian foods this week and next. First up is Bandeja Paisa, a dish that originated in Medellin. It is served with plantains and consists of a plate of pork sausage, beans, rice, grated meat, chorizo, fried egg, arepa, chicharron (pork rinds), and avocado. It is one of Mike’s favorites (except for the pork rinds).

Bandeja Paisa

Thursday 27. Lechona, also known as lechon asado, is a very popular dish often served at Christmas and other holidays. It consists of a pig stuffed with yellow peas, green onions, yellow rice, and spices, then roasted in an outdoor brick oven for about ten hours. The pork is then stripped off and mixed with the other cooked ingredients. Quite tasty.

Lechona

Friday 28. Sancocho (from the Spanish verb sancochar or "to parboil") is a traditional soup (often considered a stew) in several Latin American cuisines derived from the Spanish dish known as Cocido. It usually consists of large pieces of meat and vegetables served in a broth. Also a keeper.

Sancocho

Saturday 29. Our morning adventure began with a taxi ride to the National Museum, which until recent times was a prison. Right away, we met up with a school group on an outing and they seemed to be enthralled by the "American woman" (me) more than the museum exhibits. A few brave girls tried out their English skills by asking me questions, then giggling when I answered. The entire group
insisted on posing with me in a group photo. A pile of cell phones flashed one by one as they each got a photo with the "gringa".  Mike thought the whole affair was quite funny.

The facility itself was one of the nicer ones we've seen in in Colombia, with many wonderful historical objects displayed in interesting ways. An upstairs gallery showcased one of Colombia's most famous artists, Botero, who is known for the rendering of his subjects as overtly "large". Interesting, but not our taste in art. While strolling thru one wing, we ran into four missionaries enjoying a P-day activity. We also bumped into a Relief Society group from one of the wards we had just visited. It was fun to see them together learning about the history of their country. Mike and I enjoyed lunch at the museum cafe, which served some delicious dishes from different parts of Colombia.

El Museo Nacional

A Botero

Our specific task on our list for the day was to find thirteen Colombian soccer shirts for our grandsons. We have seen them on the streets, but the prices were too high and we heard that the "clothing district" in central Bogota had them for much less. We had been warned to watch our purses, backpacks, and pockets carefully in that area. So forewarned, we started on our way walking south into the center of Bogota. Our walk took us down Carrera 11, which is closed to motorized traffic. It was filled with every variety of street performer imaginable - racing guinea pigs, gold-painted mimes dressed like Egyptian statues, school bands, old-time dancers, family singers, street artists drawing scenes on the pavement or on canvas, etc. We saw some soccer shirts hanging from a second floor balcony and stopped to see what was available. Climbing up stairs to the second floor, we discovered a huge area separated into little stalls, each basically selling the same things. We finally found the yellow shirts we were seeking and agreed to a very good price for the ten smaller sizes. We still needed shirts in the bigger sizes, so on we walked. When we arrived at the "clothing district", vendors hawked their wares at every turn. We happened upon someone selling soccer shirts on the street and he led us up narrow, steep stairs to his family's business on the second floor of a nearby building. (My anxiety-safety meter gave us the go ahead.) His wife and two young daughters helped us find the sizes we needed for our last three shirts and we were on our way (after giving the two young daughters an Amercian $1 bill, which they thought was very cool!) We looked for a taxi to take us back home, but being a busy day, none were to be found. We kept walking in the direction of home, while waiting for an empty taxi to pass by, but when we got to the grocery store near our house, we just decided to pick up a few things for dinner and keep walking. We looked at our step-counter when we got home and found we had walked seven miles. It felt so good!

La Iglesia de San Francisco (Cerca Early 1500's)

We got home from our walk just in time for me to watch the World General Women's Broadcast on my iPad. I loved the entire session and cried numerous times just thinking about how much I love the women of the church all over the world. Of course, I kept thinking of home too, wishing I was sitting next to my daughters, granddaughters, daughter-in-laws, and friends.

Sunday 30 began with a long taxi ride to find the Quirigua Ward chapel, where Mike had agreed to give a Self-Sufficiency presentation during the combined meeting. Ten years ago, Bogota redid their addresses and the ones listed on the lds.org website are the old ones. We got the address from Edgar and THOUGHT it was the new address, but not so. The poor taxi driver was very patient and we finally found the building. It was another "oasis in the desert" chapel. We got home, had a quick bite, then Mike left for another training meeting with the Granada Stake, while I took a taxi to our ward building so I could practice the piano before Claire's baptism. Claire is one of our "mission grandchildren" and it was her eighth birthday. Candace, Claire's mother, told me that at church that morning, Caroline, Claire's younger sister said, "Where's Grandma?" Candace explained that their grandma was back in the U.S. and couldn't come, then Claire said, "No. Grandma Anderton didn't come." Candace said, "I assured her she would see you at the baptism." What a full day!

La Quirigua Ward Chapel

KR & Claire

Smoke Gets in Your Eyes

Our Monday 10 morning began with thirteen students in Session 1 (of 4) of our first attempt teaching the “Planificacion para El Exito” (TPE or “Planning for Success”) workshop. This class had been taught until January 1 by the Institute. ­It consists of four sessions of between 60 and 90 minutes each and is a requirement for anyone preparing to use the Perpetual Education Fund. With new changes making the fund available to individuals of all ages (previously 18-30), we had a mixed group of the young and not so young. The brother that installed all the phone and internet lines in our office was one of our students. He lacks three semesters to finish his degree in Sistemas (IT). Economic hardship forced him to abandon his studies, so he is so excited for this chance to finish his schooling in order to expand his work opportunities. He told us that businesses refuse to hire him or offer him less money for his work when they find he does not have a “title”. He works for the Church at times and even they pay less without a degree. Mike does such a great job of explaining the doctrine and laying out a vision for the students on how to make and execute a plan for your life. Anyone who knows him would agree he is a "plan" guy.

One of our volunteers arrived today prepared to tell us she was no longer interested in volunteering at the CAS (she told us that later in the day). When she first arrived, we sat in our office together and shared what we see as the vision of this center. We gave her the list of "necesitados" (those with needs) in the stake she has been assigned to work with and right then she changed her mind. Her words as she held her list in the air were, "This is Christ´s way, one by one. I'll do it!" We hope this vision can survive and grow here!

When we arrived home, the smell of paint filled the air as the lobby walls and the elevator doors had just been freshly painted (pale yellow for the walls and an earthly brown for the doors). This meant a repeat of the trek up six flights of stairs! The guard asked me how I liked the new color scheme. I hummed and hawed a bit before replying, "Actually, my husband was just saying that we now have a very nice urine and poop combo.” He laughed. "That´s what everyone is saying!"

Tuesday 11. Our taller “Autosuficiencia Laboral” or TAL (workshop on how to find a job on your own) must have been a hit because, during the break, several of the students were gushing about it to some visitors sitting on the sofa waiting for help. Both visitors got right up when the students returned to class and signed themselves up for the next TAL. We have several local instructors and it takes place about every two weeks. It consists of two, six-hour sessions over two days.

The internet stopped working in the afternoon and the rain started in earnest, so we left a little early. Tappsi wasn't connecting but, luckily, we caught a taxi not too far from the office. From the taxi door to the apartment entrance, a space of maybe ten feet, the pelting rain soaked Mike to the skin. I wear my hooded raincoat every day, so my legs were the only thing that got wet. Surprise, surprise! The poop-brown elevator doors were repainted during the day to a nice . . . puke green, which supposedly matches everyone´s door mats. We could use a few House Beautiful painting ideas here.

We hastily made sandwiches for dinner, then took a taxi to the institute building for our evening TPE-Session 1 there (we planned two simultaneous workshops in two different places with alternating classes over a two-week period). We like being in the Institute and working with the young people. After our class (we had many non-registered attendees show up, but we managed to cram all 25 in the room), we passed by the kitchen, where a DJ was playing music for the crowd below (the kitchen has a half wall on one side). The area below is a cement-floored garage turned into an activity room with ping pong tables, air hockey and foosball. The kids were dancing, playing games and having a great time. Mike shared some of his music, as the students really like American country music.

Mike Doing Some Teaching

When we arrived home, a big surprise greeted us as we opened the door to our apartment. A ghastly smell of burned something filled the air. I put beets on to cook earlier and told myself to be sure and turn them off before leaving the apartment. Whoops! Said beets had been cooking for over three hours-- at a boil (at least they were boiling for a while). When the water completely vaporized, the beets roasted into three, large, carbon spheres. With the lid on tightly, I carried the pan to the deck to remove the source of the horrid smell from the house, then we opened all the windows and doors. My favorite stainless steel pan was a mess. Scouring the internet for ways to clear the air, I placed small containers of white vinegar all over the house. I HATE the smell of vinegar, but it was a beet-in-the-mire situation. 

Beet a la Carbon

We awoke Wednesday 12 morning to the continuing stink of burned beets. It seemed to have penetrated the wood cabinets and the fabric on the furniture. Our morning TPE-Session 2 went well with a good discussion of how to decide what you want to study and where. Many of the students have done their homework and have made concrete decisions. Edgar, our boss, has visited many, many schools and universities determining which programs will be on the PEF-approved list. There are literally thousands of schools here and some are scams, so this is important. After class was over, Mike met with the stake Especialista from El Dorado and his wife who came to receive training. From their questions, it was evident they understand the vision and are excited to work one-on-one with the people in their stake. It´s been exciting receiving calls from different stakes asking for training in the new program. An afternoon of super rain cemented our decision to crawl into bed with our books and computers for the evening. Mike shared an article with me about the ten most dangerous cities in the world. Interestingly enough, Distrito Central, Honduras (the cities of Tegucigalpa & Comayaguela) ranks #5, and Cali, Colombia is #10. We laughed and decided the reason we serve in these places (though we are only visiting Cali and not living there) is because we are unafraid. International travel will do that for you. You can only get scared so many times, before you realize most fears are unfounded. Worrying gets old and is non-productive. Also, when you know and love the people, it makes such a difference in how you feel about a place. While chatting in the office earlier in the day, Mike mentioned we had walked home from the Institute building after class the night before. All eyes got big and round, as they couldn´t believe we would do such a thing. Mike replied, "Well, the electricity was out from Carrera 15 to Carrera 9, so no one could see us in the dark anyway." No one laughed at his attempt at a joke (even though the power was out). We decided that from now on we´d better walk TO the institute in the daylight, then take a taxi BACK home when it´s dark.

After work on Thursday 13, we stopped to get our passport photos taken. The time frame for renewing passports at the U.S. Embassy is only ten days and it's the same price as in the states. We decided, since our passports expire in six months and they are almost completely full, it would be a good idea to renew them here before we leave. 

It Was a Good Cheese Day

When I picked up my empty plastic vitamin holder and realized it was Friday 14 again, I wondered how the weeks fly by so quickly. We left for the office earlier than usual this morning, as Hugo Antay, our contact in Peru, was scheduled to call. We received answers to many of our questions and are excited for the new PEF program to roll out completely. One of the most exciting parts of the new program, besides the age change, is that students will be eligible to receive discounts on the total amount they borrow by complying in four areas: making their monthly payments on time, receiving good marks, graduating on time, and finding a job in their field of study. The participants are excited to be able to receive this extra help, which will make part of the loan almost like a scholarship. The discounts will be up to 40% of the loan amount and will be a great incentive.

In the evening, we were back at the Institute for Session 2 of the TPE. These participants are so dedicated. Some travel two hours by bus to come to class. One woman brings her 4 and 7-year-old boys with her. She feeds them a snack when they arrive, then warms dinner for them before they board the bus for the trip home. We are doing our best to encourage stake leaders to find their own instructors so the workshops can be taught in their stake centers, which would be much more convenient for the participants. Travel here is so difficult. You understand why meetings don't always begin on time and why people are always late as you use the taxis and buses yourself.

Saturday 15 was a day of rest and the only thing I can remember about it is that we had tacos for dinner. I remember this otherwise small detail because I put the pre-formed shells into the microwave to heat them up on a styrofoam plate. When the timer dinged, I opened the door to find burned shells and melted styrofoam. Mike was a sport and spooned his taco toppings onto the unburned top half of several of the shells. It wasn't a good week for cooking. 

Tacos a la Styrofoam

Our Bogota "grandchildren" greeted us with super hugs when we arrived at Sunday 16 services. They love our attention and we love theirs! They sat with us until it was time for the meeting to begin, then returned to their places beside their parents. Our Stake Presidency was in attendance and we were curious as to the reason. To our surprise, our bishop (of 7 years) was released and the father of our “grandchildren”, Dave Mouritzen, was called to be the new bishop. After our Sunday afternoon nap, we hopped into a taxi and were off to the house of an American family in our ward for a St. Patrick's Day dinner. I brought Baked Ziti (rainbow colored peppers) and green M & M's. About fourteen families filled the apartment with love, laughter, and lots of yummy food. Someone brought a pot roast and we thought we'd died and gone to heaven.

St. Patrick's Day Dinner

Monday 17 we held Session 3 of the TPE at the office. This session requires the participants to determine how they will pay for school. "The best loan is no loan", so they add up their own resources, scholarships, PEF funds, etc. to determine if schooling is feasible. If not, they must either work for a while to save up or find additional sources of income to pay the difference. For some programs, the PEF loan will be sufficient, but for others, like medicine, PEF will only cover part of the cost. Some participants may be eligible to receive educational subsidies because of where they live. Colombia has one of the strictest stratified social systems in the world. Colombia's social strata is divided as follows: Stratum 1: Lowest income, Stratum 2: Low-Middle class, Stratum 3: Middle class, Stratum 4: Upper middle class, Stratum 5: Upper class, Stratum 6: Wealthy. Only 5% of Colombians fit into Stratum 6. The government classifies neighborhoods on a scale from 1 to 6, with 1 as the lowest income area and 6 as the highest. In 1994, this stratification policy was made into law in order to grant subsidies to the poorest residents. This includes subsidies for social welfare programs and education. The system is organized so that the people living in upper layers (Strata 5 and 6) pay more for services like electricity, water and sewage than the groups in the lower strata. Critics say this system impedes social mobility through stigmatization, while its proponents argue that it allows the poor to locate to areas where they will be able to access subsidized services. Personally, I love having a mix of people living together. I think it demands that we personally care for one another, rather than relinquishing the responsibility to government.

Tuesday 18 we were back at the Institute for the evening Session 3 of TPE. It was such a beautiful night, we walked home. No boogie men were in sight.

Wednesday 19 morning was Session 4 of TPE at our office. Thirteen participants completed the taller and received their certificates. The entire discussion revolved around PEF - how to apply, how to pay, the rules, etc. I think this group is well-prepared. I especially love to see the married women continuing their education. Some have children at home and some have grown children, but all are eager to learn and help support their families. After the taller finished, we rushed to take a taxi to the Alhambra Stake Center, where our mission was holding a conference with Elder Uceda from the First Quorum of the Seventy. President and Hermana Andelin had asked that we take photos of each zone, so we brought our camera with us. The sky cooperated with high clouds to block the harsh sun, so the photos turned out great. I asked Hermana Andelin if anyone would be moving into our apartment when we leave and she said they plan to transfer some sisters into our ward, which would be a first. The lucky sisters will think they have died and gone to heaven when they live here. The conference itself was great and we enjoyed being with the enthusiastic young elders and hermanas. It lasted four hours plus, but the time flew by. 

Our Last Session at CAS

Workshop Visitor

 

Andelin's Front Right, Uceda's Front Center, Amaya's Back Right

Our Bulletin for the Just-Finished Workshops

Thursday 20 we left the apartment early in order to arrive early at the first stop of Turisbog, a company that does bus tours of Bogota. As we would be working Saturday, we gave ourselves an early day off to see some sights. We were the only two on the double decker bus for quite a while. We got a few sprinkles during the taxi ride to the bus stop, but the rest of the day was perfect - not too hot and not too cold. Riding atop the open air bus provided perfect picture-taking opportunities. We drove through some of the neighborhoods we frequent before heading up to the mountain that dominates the city center of Bogota. At 10,400 feet, Monserrate is an imposing sight. Riding a SUPER-STEEP (65% grade) tram car to the top, we could view the immense sprawl of the city when looking west and the vastness of the forested mountains when looking east. The views take your breath away, literally, at that altitude. A beautiful church with a shrine devoted to "El Senor Caido" (The Fallen Lord) sits atop the mountain, along with several restaurants. After Monserrate, our next stop was in the old part of the city called La Candelaria. We walked past the Presidential Palace and had to show our ID in order to use the streets that pass in front of the palace. The Plaza Simon Bolivar was filled with thousands of pigeons. Vendors selling corn seed provided the draw for the birds. Mike walked into a group of pigeons and when they started flying, the scene could have been taken right out of Hitchcock's famous movie. A large contingent of police officers in their dress uniforms gathered in front of the main cathedral, where a memorial service had just finished honoring two of their own, reportedly slain by FARC guerrillas in southwestern Colombia last week. We walked on thru a bustling district with shops and restaurants until we reached the "Museo de Oro" or Museum of Gold. This museum shows an extraordinary selection of pre-Conquest items fashioned in gold. It is the largest collection of its kind in the world. It boasts more than 30,000 gold artifacts used by pre-Columbian cultures in the part of South America now called Colombia. My favorite exhibit, “The Offering”, displayed treasures found at the bottom of various pools and lagoons that were used for religious ceremonies. After entering a circular room, a moving wall closed, leaving the room in complete darkness. Slowly the lights came up softly illuminating a display of gold pieces seemingly floating in a blue pool of water, completely surrounding us. In the center of the room, a blue pool in the floor covered by transparent glass was filled with all manner of gold offerings, simulating the extent of the riches offered up to the gods. No wonder the greedy Spanish sacked the cities. It's truly amazing that so much survived intact!

Our Bus Ride Begins - Friendly Construction Workers

Heading to the Top of Monserrate in Funicular

Chapel on the Mountain Crest

Statue of the Virgin in the Distance

KR Living Large

Presidential Palace

Feed the Birds, Two Pesos a Bag

The Museo de Oro Was Incredible

A Small Sampling of What Has Been Recovered From Offering Sites

Friday 21 we taught our final Session 4 taller at the institute, with twenty students receiving their certificates. The students were so sweet, and thanked us for our time and effort. Completely exhausted from the long week, we took a taxi home, ate a quick sandwich, and climbed into bed with our computers to prepare for the next day's training.

Saturday 22, thirteen newly-called Especialistas de Autosufficiencia came from different wards and stakes to get trained in their new role. Unlike the previous trainings, Mike and I were in charge, so we arrived early to set up the room, print the agendas, and have everything ready to go in order to begin on time. The training went well and everyone seemed excited to go to work helping those in their area of responsibility. Edgar went last, which worked well, as the people could go right to the computers when we finished in order to register on LDSjobs and learn how to manage the PEF accounts online. One of the Especialistas told us that C.H., one of our students in the Institute TPE was in her ward. C.H. is just returning to activity in the Church after being away for eleven years. No wonder she seemed so excited to have the gospel in her life. About noon, we took a taxi partway home, then stopped at a dress shop to pick up a shirt I had custom-made. It turned out very nice but was a bit pricey, so I probably won't have anything else made. We enjoyed dinner at a little Mexican restaurant, then headed home to work on the blog, etc.

Sunday 23 was truly a day of rest. Aaaahhhhh! After church, Mike took a nap, and I worked on the blog. Tomorrow is a national holiday so we are going on an adventure!